20 March 2021

Mind Control 8c (+) flash by Sรฉbastien Berte

Sรฉbastien Berthe, one of the best big wall climbers in the world, reports on Insta that he has flashed Mind Control 8c (+) in Oliana. It was originally graded 8c+, but later more and more climbers have, just like Seb, considered it 8c. One year ago, the Masters in Physical Education's PB was 8c+ but now he has done a 9a+ and is working on Fight or Flight 9b. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

"When I had my first trip to Oliana last year, I knew that 'Mind Control' would be a good candidate for a flash attempt... During this first trip, however, I decided not to try... I did not feel ready and strong enough (I was right because looking back today, I am sure I was not strong enough ๐Ÿ˜…).

Last Tuesday, I gave a go in my project of the moment, but it felt bad and got my ass kicked... The motivation was not there. Then I decided to totally change my goal for this day: that could be the day for an attempt in Mind Control. I spent the whole afternoon studying the betas with the local climber Arnau Terribas and went for it an hour before it got dark.

At the beginning of the route, I felt terrible and nervous and was not climbing at my best. Then I could put myself into the good warrior mode. Completely pumped, fighting at each section, I could find my way to the anchor. Was really happy and relieved!"


0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ