Michaela Kiersch FA’s Mad Lib (9a) and repeats 8c+

Michaela Kiersch has made the first ascent of Mad Lib (9a) in Lone Rock Point and repeated Livin' AstroGlide (8c+) in Waimea. The Doctor in Hand Therapy’s remarkable tick list now includes 20 routes graded 8c+ and above, along with 18 boulders at 8B or harder. Impressively, nearly all of the 30-year-old climber’s most difficult ascents have been achieved in just the past four years. She also holds the distinction of being the first woman to climb both a 9a+ route and an 8C boulder. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about those impressive ascents?
The 9a climbs a new start (5 bolts) and links into the very top arete of the wall (8a+ finish which I fell on the last move once). There are existing 5.14s at the wall and this line is an obvious link through some of the hardest sections of the cliff. I was able to establish the first ascent of Mad Lib (9a) last week — making it the hardest female FA in North America! The name comes from the various routes it links through, and rather than connect them all in alphabet soup (Buffalo Sized King Terror Wolf etc), calling it Mad Lib, after the word game, felt appropriate. Plus several route names on the cliff have a hip hop theme, so it doubly fit.

I tried Livin' Astroglide in Rumney for 1 day at the beginning of the trip and after sending Mad Lib I was able to tick it off 4th go.