Michael Piccolruaz does Es Pontas (9a+)

Michael Piccolruaz, who recently announced his retirement from international competition climbing, has sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. The Italian placed 15th at the Tokyo Olympics, has also earned a silver medal in a Boulder World Cup. Outdoors, he has done several 9a’s and one 8C this summer.

How many sessions and falls into the sea did it take?
Maybe like eight in 2021 and same the same amount this year 🤔 didn't count them. And maybe like 40-50 falls into the sea... I had two bad falls on the jump which is at around six meters. But nothing serious, only a little bruised back. From higher up I thankfully never had a bad fall.

” Throughout my career, I've climbed many all-time climbs, and I have often asked myself if it can get any better. So far, I have always found a better climb, or at least one leveling with the previous ones.

But 'Es Pontas' is entirely in its own tier. I honestly believe that this is THE best line we have in climbing. THE KING LINE! Getting on top of this insane piece of rock has been a lifelong dream of mine, and my story with the line goes back a long time — from getting inspired by @chrissharma doing the FA in the King Lines movie, to putting my hands on it for the first time in 2021. Sieging the crazy jump with @jakobschubert, finally sticking it, only to not be able to repeat it again from the original start.

Putting 'Es Pontas' aside for some years to focus on becoming better at this game of Deep Water Soloing. Sending Alasha (9a), getting the confidence that I can climb hard high above the water. Exploring the untouched potential of the limestone cliffs on Mallorca more and adding some first ascents. Then finally coming back this year with one sole focus, one single purpose: close the cycle and climb 'Es Pontas'.

Intimidated by the jump, my strategy was to work the upper crux boulder a lot on the rope, make sure to be solid on it, then move on to try 'Around the Arch' (downclimbing from the left to the jump top holds, and from there continue and do the traverse and end of 'Es Pontas'). I knew that doing this link would give me the confidence that I could do the whole thing once I stuck the jump, as the pump level would be similar to coming from the bottom.

But eventually, I had to start trying the jump again too — this one move that had caused me so much headache back in 2021 and, as it turned out, would cause it again this year. Surprisingly, I did it one time in my third session back on the route, and as I felt solid on it, I was confident that I could do it again every session. Turns out that was an illusion. The next session I was back to square zero, I wasn’t close at all, and frustration started to build.

After each fall into the water, I tried to tell myself that I would hopefully only need that one lucky punch when I stuck it again — and then I wouldn’t fall after that. Turns out that was also an illusion. When I finally stuck the jump again, I found myself on the arete boulder being way too pumped to have a chance of sending. But this time I had unlocked the jump for real, and I started doing it more consistently. This gave me a lot of confidence, and I knew that I just had to climb better through all the other sections, save as much energy as possible, and also the upper crux would go.

And then that one special try came. I had just fallen on the jump again after doing it three times in a row; the try before, I fumbled on the traverse. If I was nervous at the beginning of the session, prior to this try I wasn’t anymore, really, as my focus had switched from “ok, I have to send now” to “ok, I need to do the jump again first now.” So I was climbing more relaxed again, got to the jump, stuck it, was happy that I did it again, but then locked in and focused on climbing perfectly through the next part. I flowed more than on previous tries, breathed better, and already when I entered the crux moves, I knew that I could do it now. I just had to keep my composure and not get taken by excitement. And then I was hanging on the saving jug, instantly screaming out my relief and happiness.

The last 7–8 easy meters up to the top of the arch were pure enjoyment. I wasn’t even trying to hold back any emotions, and when I mantled up into the sunlight, I couldn’t really believe that I had just completed this lifelong dream of mine. I just did 'Es Pontas'!!! The world’s best line!! Insane!!”