Meiose 9a (+) by Alexander Rohr

Friday, 22 October

Alexander Rohr reports on Insta that he has done Pirmin Bertle's Meiose in Charmey which originally was graded 9b. As previously Alex Megos has said, Rohr thinks that what Bertle did was a 9a+ elimination. (c) Jan Virt

"Well, I did it in more or less two sessions. On day one I was focused on giving some beta for Alex to give his flash try on Chromosome Y. So I climbed on that one a lot and later I put in the draws on Meiose. We then returned for that one the next day and he sent and I blew the last move into the mono. I spent one week in France for some climbing and returned for Meiose. I put in the draws and sent it the next try. We both did the exact same beta which is probably 9a. The one Pirmin used is good, but not logical, as my opinion is that a route should be graded based on the easiest method and not some made up cruxes."

It should be mentioned that when Adam Ondra did the first repeat he called it a "Low end 9a+" after having done it on his third go. This was in 2018 and then Pirmin responded on his blog, "I clearly refuse a downgrading of Meiose. Using it as a 9a+ reference for Switzerland would mean to block the way further up for almost every actual 9a climber of the country."

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