Meini Li's (11) remarkably 8b+ story

Two weeks ago, we reported that Meini Li (10) had done her first 8b+, China Climb in Yangshou. After talking to her mother Emma, the 8b+ story turns out to be something for the record book, as her parents are just beginner climbers and that they live 6+ hours from the crag. Furthermore, she began climbing outdoors last year and normally just climbs three days a week. Nevertheless, she has won 40 national titles including all disciplines the last two years.

When was the first time you realized Meini is super talented?
We do not think that Meini got any talent for climbing until now! She is short and thin. She got no advantage from this but what we really see is she loves climbing and “play” very hard on it. What she likes the most about climbing is having fun. She loves climbing as a part of her and we just follow her step now.

How do you belay her to give her soft falls?
Daddy is often the belayer when she is climbing outside. They communicate more and Meini would share more feelings with him about what is more comfortable for her to climb to the top. That's their way on it!

Is there any sports tradition in the family?
Daddy is a sports fan and he trained spriting when he was at junior and senior high school. We do not have any experiences of climbing before Meini started it. After she got passionate about it, we just begin to climb a little for knowing more about it in order to know more about her. We have to say that climbing is really good for people no matter on being a sport or character-shaping even we are not good at this.

How does Meini handle the mental pressure of giving 100 % being exposed for taking big falls?
She did love roller coaster when she was very young and she loves challenges just like her daddy. At the beginning of climbing, she had similar feelings like with roller coaster. As growing up, she is also afraid of taking falls sometimes when she is far above a quickdraw especially in a high position. The way she handles the mental pressure is trying (taking falls) over and over again. Then you would accept it.

How much does she train and what about outdoors?
Meini trains twice during the week after school for about 2.5 hours and she also trains on Saturdays. We usually go to some new climbing gyms for some new and different routes in the other city which may take us 1.5 to 2 hours by self-driving. Most of the time, she trains indoors and we have nearly no time to climb outdoors except on holidays. We began to climb outdoor just from last year due to “COVID”.