29 September 2021
Mega classic Font 7A goes as 6B with kneepad
Holey Moley in Fontainebleau has 588 ascents in the 8a database where 79 % have logged it as 7A and the rest 7A+ or even 7B. Now one of the #kneebartheworld masters, Tor Johnson has a video on his Insta, where he uses a kneepad and comments, "7A(/6B?)".
Last year, we published the article It is time to start training knee bars with some advice by Tor.
"When I climb I always look for kneebars just as much as I look for holds. Finding a kneebar is often a game changer when you try to send a climb that is on your limit. Kneebars is not just about resting and making moves easier. Sometimes you can do totally new sequences using a kneebar. Some people say that using kneepads are cheating as they make the climbs easier. And they are right. That is the point! The same thing was said about climbing shoes and chalk when they first came around. Nowadays it seems very strange to climb without chalk! I'm sure kneepads are here to stay and I think they should be part of any climbers standard setup just like climbing shoes and chalk bags.
I train my kneebar skills at least once a week. Some people say they only use kneebars when they have to. That is strange to me. Technical kneebars require a high level of skill and specific strength just like heal hooks or drop knees. If you don't practice it, there is no way you will get the most out of the kneebars when you really need them."
Last year, we published the article It is time to start training knee bars with some advice by Tor.
"When I climb I always look for kneebars just as much as I look for holds. Finding a kneebar is often a game changer when you try to send a climb that is on your limit. Kneebars is not just about resting and making moves easier. Sometimes you can do totally new sequences using a kneebar. Some people say that using kneepads are cheating as they make the climbs easier. And they are right. That is the point! The same thing was said about climbing shoes and chalk when they first came around. Nowadays it seems very strange to climb without chalk! I'm sure kneepads are here to stay and I think they should be part of any climbers standard setup just like climbing shoes and chalk bags.
I train my kneebar skills at least once a week. Some people say they only use kneebars when they have to. That is strange to me. Technical kneebars require a high level of skill and specific strength just like heal hooks or drop knees. If you don't practice it, there is no way you will get the most out of the kneebars when you really need them."
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