26 November 2020
May it be SDS 8A by Chloe Pay (18)
Chloe Pay, who this summer sent her first 8A+, has done her sixth 8A during 2020, May it be SDS, aka "Leave it be", in Snugglers notch. In the Teenager ranking game she is #2 in the world.
"This choss-pile was both my longest and most pathetic project. I started college three months ago and quickly realized I had little time to dedicate to climbing. I went from ticking off climb after climb over the summer to going nearly three months without any big sends. I had never been through this type of hiatus before and, as a result, my psych for the sport waivered.
When I went to college, I knew my time would be preoccupied with school work, but I did not account for the other changes that would limit my ability to climb. My summer climbing squad went their own ways and I was left to train with my new college friends and on my own. Sometimes, just getting to the gym was a challenge. If I wasnโt able to catch a ride, I had to find 90 minutes in my schedule for public transportation to and from the gym. In order to overcome the low psych, I tried to keep my goals in mind, like possible trips, projects, and my nemesis โLeave it Be.โ
Over the past three months, during my weekend trips to Smuggs, I threw myself at this chossy mess. I would consistently get through the crux, only to punt off the top of the boulder. I was so consistently punty, my friends made a video compilation of my attempts and added some soothing background music: โWells Fargo.โ Every year, the Smuggs road closes around Halloween due to the winter weather and doesnโt open again until Spring. When I heard that the road had closed for the season, I was mildly heartbroken. My friends had no interest in hiking up the road, and I was left to conquer โLeave it Beโ by myself.
Last weekend, I caught a ride with some friends and hiked up to the boulder. Recognizing that winter was well on its way, I knew I wouldnโt have many more opportunities to send. Although my hands and toes were completely numb, I was determined to stop fooling around and just send the climb. I stuck the right-hand throw to a jug, the move I always fell on, and I knew that my battle with this boulder was over. I am happy to say that I never have to hang from that boulder again, and can now focus my attention on bigger and better rocks."
"This choss-pile was both my longest and most pathetic project. I started college three months ago and quickly realized I had little time to dedicate to climbing. I went from ticking off climb after climb over the summer to going nearly three months without any big sends. I had never been through this type of hiatus before and, as a result, my psych for the sport waivered.
When I went to college, I knew my time would be preoccupied with school work, but I did not account for the other changes that would limit my ability to climb. My summer climbing squad went their own ways and I was left to train with my new college friends and on my own. Sometimes, just getting to the gym was a challenge. If I wasnโt able to catch a ride, I had to find 90 minutes in my schedule for public transportation to and from the gym. In order to overcome the low psych, I tried to keep my goals in mind, like possible trips, projects, and my nemesis โLeave it Be.โ
Over the past three months, during my weekend trips to Smuggs, I threw myself at this chossy mess. I would consistently get through the crux, only to punt off the top of the boulder. I was so consistently punty, my friends made a video compilation of my attempts and added some soothing background music: โWells Fargo.โ Every year, the Smuggs road closes around Halloween due to the winter weather and doesnโt open again until Spring. When I heard that the road had closed for the season, I was mildly heartbroken. My friends had no interest in hiking up the road, and I was left to conquer โLeave it Beโ by myself.
Last weekend, I caught a ride with some friends and hiked up to the boulder. Recognizing that winter was well on its way, I knew I wouldnโt have many more opportunities to send. Although my hands and toes were completely numb, I was determined to stop fooling around and just send the climb. I stuck the right-hand throw to a jug, the move I always fell on, and I knew that my battle with this boulder was over. I am happy to say that I never have to hang from that boulder again, and can now focus my attention on bigger and better rocks."
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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