19 August 2024

Max Milne flashes Bewilderness (8B+)

Max Milne, who started the World Cup season by beeing #9 & #8 in Lead and Boulder, has flashed Bewilderness (8B+) in Peak District. In total, only a dozen climbers have previously flashed 8B+ including Will Bosi who was at the scene giving him the beta as well as cleaning the holds on the top.

โ€œIt was quite surreal. I obviously knew i could do it but i'm really chuffed and it was cool that I had to fight. On this one [Bewilderness], a lot of the moves felt fairly at my limit so I had to lock in to get it done. I am proud to have said I was going to do it and then back up what I said with my actions.

I have looked up to Will for many years and we know each other fairly well but for me it is always super special to climb with him as itโ€™s not that often we do get to train or climb on rock together. I have looked up to him for many years ever since I was a kid and I still do now too. So it was quite magical to have him there and help me through the whole process of flashing Bewilderness from the beta, spotting, encouragement and the good vibes. For me one of the best parts of flashing a bloc isnโ€™t just the challenge itself but is the fact that itโ€™s not just youโ€.


Max warmed up climbing on Badger Badger Badger (8A) which was a perfect warm-up for him as moves are very comp-style with a bit of spice at the top to jump to the good hold and then as me, Will and photographer Jake were grabbing photos elsewhere Max slowly got himself into the headspace for the flash.

The 'lock in' scribbled on his hiangles is a cool story. It is a meme online but Max jokingly put it on his shoes as a nudge to focus and now it is a key part of his routine for comps and he brought it to the flash attempt at Badger.
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