Matteo Gambaro, 49, does Trip tik tonik (9a)

Matteo Gambaro, who sent his sixth 9a two years ago at age 47, has completed Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I've been trying it for a while... a few times over the years but never with continuity and without ever understanding much about it. Last spring I spent several days on the route managing to find a good setting for my characteristics and solve the crux section with a hybrid method between the male solution, definetly too physical for me, usually used, and that of women or mutant kids, too compact for me..

I managed to break the line with a rest but at the beginning of the crux section and the goal remained far away. In August a bad back injury and no autumn season but a long period of pain, fatigue and struggle to recover above all the possibility to climb on such overhanging routes and with the use of the controversial kneepads. At the end of August, after having recovered and climbed some routes and considering myself now healed, I decide to try again. After two days on the route to regain the feeling and re-internalize the sections, unexpectedly I manage to improve and for the first time I feel close to the climb. I decide to try it continuously but I realize that at my age and with my current level I have to learn to manage myself and not try too hard... I risk overtraining quickly or worse, breaking down. So I dedicate one day every 4-5 to the route and gnaw at holds until I always fall in the final two moves. Something always happens..too dry, too wet, no wind, too tired... Too poor

The rains are starting to be frequent and the route risks getting wet and goodbye season. Let's try again, let's take it as training. Yesterday everything finally went as I repeated in my mind every evening and every time I went over the route again and was convinced to climb it. At 50 years old in a month the game remains the same, but managing the body and mind is becoming more and more interesting😵‍💫.