15 July 2021
Mathematical scenarios in Tokyo
The Combined format in Tokyo is based on the multiplication of the results in all three disciplines. This means that it is much better to excel in one discipline rather than being consistent in all disciplines. Here are some ranking examples
1. Tomoa Narasaki 2 * 1 * 6 = 12 (Speed - Boulder - Lead)
2. Adam Ondra 7 * 3 * 1 = 21
3. Jakob Schubert 6 * 2 * 2 = 24
4*. Bassa Mawem 1 * 8 * 8 = 64
5. Alberto Gines Lopez 3 * 6 * 5 = 90
6. Alex Megos 8 * 4 * 3 = 96
7. Alexey Rubtsov 4 * 5 * 7 = 140
8. Colin Duffy 5 * 7 * 4 = 140
As we know, one slip in any of the disciplines can dramatically change the ranking. Particularly so in Bouldering, where a bit of luck could put any of the finalists, besides the Speed specialists, on top. Let us say Megos wins in Bouldering while all other results above are kept the same. 1. Megos = 24 (wins as he beats Narasaki in two out of three events)
2. Narasaki = 24
3. Ondra = 28
4. Schubert = 36
5. Mawem = 64
* The Speed qualification winner will probably end as #4 in the final. Another possibility is that there will be two Speed specialists in the final, which then increases the "risk" for one of them getting the bronze although not scoring one zone in Bouldering as well as just making two clips or so in Lead. However, Narasaki could win Speed meaning that he probably will get a maximal score of 14 and thus Ondra, or any other, need to win both in Lead and Boulder to get the gold.
1. Tomoa Narasaki 2 * 1 * 6 = 12 (Speed - Boulder - Lead)
2. Adam Ondra 7 * 3 * 1 = 21
3. Jakob Schubert 6 * 2 * 2 = 24
4*. Bassa Mawem 1 * 8 * 8 = 64
5. Alberto Gines Lopez 3 * 6 * 5 = 90
6. Alex Megos 8 * 4 * 3 = 96
7. Alexey Rubtsov 4 * 5 * 7 = 140
8. Colin Duffy 5 * 7 * 4 = 140
As we know, one slip in any of the disciplines can dramatically change the ranking. Particularly so in Bouldering, where a bit of luck could put any of the finalists, besides the Speed specialists, on top. Let us say Megos wins in Bouldering while all other results above are kept the same. 1. Megos = 24 (wins as he beats Narasaki in two out of three events)
2. Narasaki = 24
3. Ondra = 28
4. Schubert = 36
5. Mawem = 64
* The Speed qualification winner will probably end as #4 in the final. Another possibility is that there will be two Speed specialists in the final, which then increases the "risk" for one of them getting the bronze although not scoring one zone in Bouldering as well as just making two clips or so in Lead. However, Narasaki could win Speed meaning that he probably will get a maximal score of 14 and thus Ondra, or any other, need to win both in Lead and Boulder to get the gold.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


