Marine Thevenet ticks Manhattan Reine Cantonale (8B+)

Marine Thevenet, with some 130 boulders 8A to her name, has completed Manhattan reine cantonale (8B+) in Valais Central. Her second sessions was in mid July and since the she has wo worked it once every other week more or less, often alone. (c) Antoine Mesnage

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
About the process: until my 5th session, there was a move I still hadn’t done. I was ‘close’ but it wouldn’t work. Normally, you have to do a left heel hook, take a left-hand crimp, move again left to a small crimp, and then jump to the final jug. I couldn’t manage to do the lockoff to go again right. I was too small to keep the heel hook, and not strong enough to do do it with a toe-in (I don't know if this is the correct word in english - "griffé" de pied in french). So it cost me a lot mentally to stay ‘positive’ and tell myself that the problem was possible. But somehow, I started to "like" that it was a big challenge ! At my fifth session, I found another beta: keep the left hand and go to the small right-hand crimp. From there, everything clicked! I progressed with each of the sessions that followed.

The boulder is 2.5 hours from my place. I have to admit, it was quite the mission!!! Especially… since it gets into the shade at 5 p.m. The first time I went to Pralong, it was to do the boulder 'La Cantolle 8B,' and when I sent it, I saw 'Manhattan.' You don’t really choose your projects ;) I liked it, I wanted to commit, and I organized everything around my motivation :)

In reality, it actually worked pretty well with my job. I wasn’t losing a whole day of work by going to my project—I could work in the morning, take calls in the car or listen to podcasts that help me with work, do my session at the end of the day, and then head home! I still had trouble doing more than one session per week on the boulder because it completely exhausted me!

And I think I needed a challenge that would resist me. It sounds strange to say it like that, but it pushed me to my limits. At first, I had a lot of doubts, and gradually I told myself: that’s the game. Not being completely sure that I’d ever do it, and putting everything in place to succeed—or at least do my best.

Did you do any special training for the send?
I trained lockoffs for five weeks, haha! Then, with the new beta, I changed everything—more shoulder and core training. I did one session on the boulder, one specific session (lockoffs or shoulder work), and one or two other workouts per week. It depended on how tired I was.

What is next?
I am going to spain this autumn, so we will see ! I want to climb in La Pedriza :)