
13 October 2025
Luke Gerhardt does Sleepwalker 8C (+)
Luke Gerhardt has done Sleepwalker (8C+) on his fifth session and thinks it is 8C/+. (c) Anna Kelley
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I opted for newer beta where you skip the intermediate pinch out right (completely different from Zanderโs beta). This turned the crux into one very low percentage move to the sloper. Using the pinch felt much higher percentage in iso but when coming from bottom the friction would feel too bad. I think with better conditions (It was 64 [18] degrees when I sent๐) and a little more time to learn the moves I would actually prefer to use the pinch as it would be more reliable. In total it took me 5 sessions to send sleepwalker, 3 sessions this trip. Iโll definitely be coming back to work lower in the future.
As for grade, I could see v15 [8C] being a possibility. I donโt have too strong of an opinion especially because Iโve only ever done one v15. Beta has definitely been more refined since jimmys first ascent. Height and conditions play a huge role on this boulder aswell. At the end of the day itโs one of the sickest, hardest lines in America and Iโm psyched.
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31 May 2023
Ryuichi Murai. The ultimate weekend warrior.
Ryuichi Murai is a former competition climber who was #5 in a World Cup in 2018. The 28-year-old has done 20 boulders 8C or 8C+ and nowadays he considers himself a weekend warrior who always climbs alone. In February he did Sleepwalker (8C+) after projecting it for eight days, and he explained how hโฆ
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Zander Waller has skipped two grades by repeating James Webbโs Sleepwalker 8C+ in Black Velvet Canyon. โReally cool new beta, unfortunately itโs easier now, hopโฆ
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โWoโฆ
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