19 March 2017

"Lucky Loser" sportmanship Olympic dilemma

IFSC have decided that only the Top-6 will qualify to be in the finals in the Olympics. "For the Speed Final the concept of โ€œLucky loserโ€ (7ยฐ and 8ยฐ ranked Athletes in the 1/8th finals) applies, as a quota of 6 does not allow the duel system." As the "Lucky Loser" has nothing to win, this system could create a sportsmanship dilemma as many of the athletes are friends. It might just be that the "Lucky Loser" competing against a good friend, who could get a medal, will not give 100 %. Further more, if a "Lucky Loser" makes it to the final or bronze final, such a run is of no interest for the competition. In fact, it would actually be smarter for a Top-6 finalist to go a bit slow in order to save energy. (We assume that the Combined ranking will only be based on the results of the Top-6.) Imagine how strange it would be for any of the 12 finalists, a hundred commentators and tens of millions of spectators to follow such a Olympic Speed final, where some athletes will not go 100 %. The simple solution for this is to include Top-8 to the final. Alternatively, have three lanes of Speed routes, where the two fastest qualify to the semifinals.
11 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโ€ฆ