Low importance for Speed in the qualifications

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 7 March

Based on the IFSC 2020 Olympic qualification system one might say that there is very little use for the athletes to actually focus on Speed, beside technical training, until the end of 2019. 1. Six spots have been allocated to the Combined World Championship in 2019, i.e. it is the qualification that will decide. Based on the multiplication format, good results in all three discipline are poor in comparison to an uneven result: 1 * 10 * 50 = 500 wins over 8 * 8 * 8 = 512 2. Focusing on Speed 2019, meaning training hard and travelling, in order to get some few points in Speed, among the specialists, means you are likely to loose more points in Lead or Boulder: #1 = 100 points and #4 = 55 points/#25 = 5 points. The Top-20 in the overall World Cup 2019 will finish the season with an Qualifying event and here Speed will have more impact as no Speed specialist will probably qualify. However, it is not until the Top-6 final in Tokyo when the Speed ability will have the greatest impact, due to the multiplication format. It should also be mentioned that if you are from countries that have more than two guys that could qualify like: Japan, USA, Austria, France, Italy, Slovenia or Germany, the first qualification WCH in 2019 is most important. After that comp, most likely Japan and one more country have filled their quota.

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