7 October 2019
Obsession 9b FA by Loic Zehani (17)
Loic Zehani reports on Insta that he has done a harder exit to a 9a+ in Orgon he did two months ago calling it Obsession 9b.
"I needed 25 more tries for sending a harder exit, quite more resistant. It was an โObsessionโ after falling 12 times in a move where I was falling only one time when I climbed โLe Poisson pilotโ. You need to climb all the integral version of โLe Poisson piloteโ then you traverse on the right and you finish with the end of โMollahs du mollardโ in a very resistant effort. 37 hard moves and a nice 6c/7a for the end.
After reflexion, I propose 9b for this one. Itโs a 9a+ into an 8b+ with a bad rest between. I would like some climbers will come and try the line despite some of the holds that are drilled (less than 10 on 37 hard moves). Itโs not bad compared to Orgonโs other sector, Canal.
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22 October 2014
8b+ again by Loic Zehani (12)
Loic Zehani has done his third 8b+, Le petit junky in Orgon. Three months ago, the 12 year old, also did his first 8c and interestingly, his father Chris (40) hโฆ
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8b+ by Loic Zehani (12)
Loic Zehani has done his second 8b+, Cupressus Blues in Orgon. In 2012, his personal best was 6c. His father, Chris (40) has the last year done four 8c+.
"It's a big challenge for me to share out my passion for climbing. I think it's the same for him. He is just 12 years old and he have a lot of fuโฆ
13 August 2014
8c by Loic Zehani (13)
Loic Zehani has done his first 8c, Le blues de la belle in Orgon which took him ten days to do. "It suites my style perfectly, little holds on 30ยฐ (around) overhang. The start is super hard with little pockets and small foott holds. After it is easier but you can fall under the anchor, if you do an โฆ
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