24 November 2014

Lluc Maciá - the 3rd ten-year-old to on-sight 8a

The progression experienced by David Maciá's older son, Lluc Maciá, has gone from linear to exponential in the last times. A little more than a month ago he was able to send his first 8a+ with Martina in Monserrat, a nice feat which he repeated the day after with Sprint Final in the same area. But where he's specially standing out is in the on-sight mode. Some few days before he sent those two routes, he also raised his bar at climbing without any previous info by on-sighting the spectacular tufas line in Terradets Norte, Vitamina N, 7c+. And it seems like this crag is among his favourites since it was there, more exactly in Bruixes, where one day last week he started by trying to on-sight Orient 7c/+ with no success —he did it second go— and then he didn't give up going for Bon Viatge 8a, with no failure this time (in the pic). This route was originally graded 8a+. However, ulterior repetitions have settled its level a plus lower. ”It's got it all. It's one of the longest routes in this sector with a hard crux in the middle which I had to fully fight and an impressive arrival to the anchor.” The young boy tell us more about it: ”It's been some time that my dad has been telling me that I was strong enough to go to Les Bruixes and try to climb on-sights and so we did. An incredible sector, one of the bests I've ever seen. That Saturday I tried to on-sight a 7c+ and I almost did it, and then we decided to go and try an 8a. In the beginning it was intended for a second go ascent, but we had it clear that my first go had to be on-sight and a muerte. And so it was. It was pretty thrilling. All the people in the sector was paying attention to me and they didn't stop cheering me up all the way up, specially at the upper part, when I started to think that I could send it. A huge satisfaction. All the people were smiling. All my family was shouting and hugging." With this and if we're not wrong, Lluc Maciá became that day the third person to on-sight an 8a at the age of 10, after Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi, and we couldn't find a better moment to have an interview with him.
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