
30 March 2019
Life of Villains 9a (+) by Evan Hau
Evan Hau, who previously has done three 9a's, has done Life of Villains in Hurricave giving it a personal 9a grade. (c) Christopher Weidner
"Incredible king line by Joe (Kinder). I was so inspired by trying it briefly and watching others on it over Christmas that I centered a second trip primarily around this route. Stoked on the experience and how it all came together!
I tried Life of Villains two days last trip just to try the moves and then it took ten days this trip which makes it my fastest 9a ever. I started training specifically this winter for the first time and it seems to be paying off! Normally in the winter I just climb for fun in the gym.
Next I have one week left in Utah to try a few more things and then back home to Canada where I'm working on a 9a project I bolted and also I want to try Sacrifice 9a+, a route I bolted that Adam Ondra FAed last summer."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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