Lexicon 8b+ R (E11) by Dave MacLeod (44)

Dave MacLeod reports on Insta that he has done the second repeat, after Steve McClure, of Neil Gresham's Lexicon in Pavey Park. The original grade was E11 (7a) using the British grade which takes into account both how hard and how dangerous it is to onsight. Neil has said the climb itself warrants 8b+ due to the risk of falling 25 meters doing the final 7C boulder crux, which is the reason why R has earlier been added to the grade. If it would have been a risk of death then it would have been an 8b+ X, while it would probably have been an E12.

Dave reports that he found an extra gear placement and also that he did it on his first attempt having worked on it since last autumn.

Noteworthy is that the average age of the three climbers is 47 although Dave is just 44 years old. He has been cutting edge for 20+ years and just recently done 8B+ and 9a. Full detailed story on Dave's blogspot:

"Unfinished climbs have always been a source of chronic pain to me, an ache I can tolerate for long periods when there is no other option. But the minute I can change the picture, I’ll do anything I can to resolve it. When I say ache, I mean that in a good way, like the ache of burning muscles in training. It’s good pain! The minute I resolve it, I’m almost instantly looking to cause it again and have lived this way for 25 years. There is an expression that pain is the cost of being alive and as far as I’m concerned, it’ll stop when I’m dead."