14 March 2021
Les affranchis 9a+/b FA by Loic Zehani (19)
Loic Zehani has done his second hardest route ever, Les affranchis 9a+/b in Orgon. The 19-year-old has previously done 27 routes 9a to 9b, out of which 15 FAs. (c) Julia Cassou
"It is effectively a connection between "Sachidananda" (9a+) and "Bronx" (8c+). I added a bolt in between the two to see if it went naturally (otherwise I would have taken it out because they are mythical routes and I especially did not want to modify them). Luckily it goes with a very hard crossing section (about 8A boulder over 3 movements).
To schematize: 6-moves 8a, then a 7C + boulder approximately followed by an 8A boulder to arrive in "Bronx". This gives 20 movements in 9a/a + followed by 18 moves, 8b+ in "Bronx"."
"It is effectively a connection between "Sachidananda" (9a+) and "Bronx" (8c+). I added a bolt in between the two to see if it went naturally (otherwise I would have taken it out because they are mythical routes and I especially did not want to modify them). Luckily it goes with a very hard crossing section (about 8A boulder over 3 movements).
To schematize: 6-moves 8a, then a 7C + boulder approximately followed by an 8A boulder to arrive in "Bronx". This gives 20 movements in 9a/a + followed by 18 moves, 8b+ in "Bronx"."
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