6 November 2022

Leonidio Festival with Anak and Favre presentation, marathon and how to bolt

The hot and sunny weather continued on the second day of the Leonidio Climbing Festival and 54 cars were parked by Sabaton, one of the few crags with shade the whole day. Alternatively, you could make an afternoon session in Montañejos Climbing Garden with a 1-minute approach, and be the only car at the parking. Aire Parani won the Vertical-Life climbing marathon by doing 15 routes in sector Theos.

In the evening, Anak Verhoeven and Nils Favre had a presentation, followed by an outdoor party with a lot of dancing. Anak has won several World Cups and done 16 routes 8c+/9a and harder, although having focused only on rock climbing for two years! (Interview with the “competitive” outdoor climber who has not booked her flight back yet, soon to be presented.)

Nils, on the other side, was a “lifestyle” climber as a youngster until some friends discovered his talent and he went from 6c to 8b in a couple of months. Later he got the silver in the Swiss Championship in his very first comp and started doing WC’s at age 23. Now, seven years later he is one of the oldest competitors and last year he got the silver in a Euro Cup. Even so, his ticklist outdoors is even more impressive and he does all disciplines.

On the last day it was raining in the morning and Aris T and Claude I moved their bolting workshop indoors and 50 climbers showed up for their more than two-hour presentation. Asking how much more potential there is to be found, they said more routes in the shade will be opened and also very close to the sea in Kyparissi.

Aris: “However, there are enough routes and our focus is to increase the quality and safety by cleaning and rebolting bad bolts, etc. Just send me a message about what needs to be fixed :)”
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