Leo Cea, 12, 9a video and short interview

Leo Cea just sent Trip tik tonik (9a), the 12-year-old’s fourth of the grade.

What goes through your mind just before climbing and during the ascent?
Before I start climbing, I visualize all the moves of the route in my head and try to focus. I get ready and start thinking on the crux. While I’m climbing, I think about each move I’m doing and the one that’s coming next, and I focus on that. I also keep the crux in mind. And once I get past the crux, I just think about keeping on going up.

What is the biggest difference climbing in Europe compared to in Chile?
The biggest difference is that in Chile the routes are much newer. They’re dirtier and the holds aren’t as polished from use. In Europe, you can really tell the routes have been climbed a lot—they’re very clean, and sometimes the holds are super polished from so much use. Also, in Chile—at least in Las Chilcas—many routes are kind of combinations of different lines, so everything feels a bit mixed up. In Europe, I haven’t seen that happen as much.

What is it you like the most about climbing?
There are so many things I like about climbing, but what I love the most is exploring and discovering new climbing areas and the different routes they have. Some of them are just so beautiful! I really enjoy trying new routes. I also like training a lot—I always have a great time. It really motivates me to climb the routes I have in mind and to feel like I’m improving so I can try more and different climbs.

What are your plans for the autumn?
I want to go to Margalef during my school fall vacation. I already have a few routes in mind, but I haven’t decided which one specifically yet. In the meantime, I will keep climbing outdoors in Frankenjura as well as training at the Frankenjura Academy Climbing Gym. Dani (my coach, Daniel Serman) is overseeing and designing my training plan.

As for after Margalef, I’m not sure yet, but I definitely plan to continue climbing and hopefully visit other climbing areas.