Leo Bøe FA’s 130m 9a+ in Flatanger

Leo Bøe, with 18 routes 9a and beyond under his harness, has done the first ascent of Verdens Ende (9a+) in Flatanger. The 130-meter route begins with Brunhilde low start (9a) before continuing for another 70 meters on traditional gear, as additional bolts are prohibited. Remarkably, the 26-year-old completed the climb using an 80-meter rope, forcing him to pull up the rope three times to minimize rope drag. The ascent took more than an hour to complete. (c) Clemens Popp

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and what went into completing it?
I was looking for the most obvious and straight line through the whole roof that also could be secured with gear at the same time. After climbing Brunhilde and looking up I thought it could be exactly what I was looking for, but would it go? How hard would it be? And with the bolting ban I had the added challenge of finding a path that could be secured through the whole roof.

One day I ventured up from Brunhilde anchor and it took me two days to get out to the lip of the cave. It was hard and intimidating work, with physical climbing between gear placements, but I soon had a line that would go pretty much straight through the whole cave and to the top of the mountain on trad gear.

I had to borrow trad gear from my friend Elliot Ashe and even order more to have enough to secure the whole 70m section without bolts. There is a dispute between land owners and therefore we are not allowed to bolt any new routes or even rebolt. It’s been that way for more than 10 years. I knew that if I wanted to create new lines in the cave this would have to be the way. The bolting ban turned into an interesting challenge and I could still attempt to climb the whole roof whilst respecting it.

Before giving attempts I had to solve the rope drag puzzle which often occurs on these long lines. I figured I needed 3 rope changes in total. In the best resting positions I would clip a long quickdraw into my belay loop so that my belayer could disconnect and me pull the 80m rope to the ground with my free hand. In case I slipped while resting the quickdraw would catch me. When the rope was pulled to the floor, my belayer could move over to that spot and belay from there. It would act as a «reset» for the rope drag without ever wheighing any gear. Now I could attempt the 130m single pitch.

After working the route alot and getting the right links I started working the bouldery start, which now was hard with the lack of power from all the endurance climbing. It took some days before I passed it, but when I did I pushed for the top in a very good tempo. I knew that if I wanted to send I couldn’t stop forever in each rest. I needed to be efficient and not waste time or I would end up very thirsty.

After passing the bottom for the first time I climbed the whole Brunhilde Low and got into the crimpy 7C boulder that comes shortly after. To my surprise I fell on the last move, but with great conditions. I knew that it would go and on my next day I climbed even better. I passed the redpoint crux and pushed all the way through the roof and onto the lip where I did the final little victory bounce to a jug. It felt awesome, but I was nervous for the top which I hadn’t climbed before.

Something like 35m of vertical and slab and my worst scenario was breaking a hold and waste the attempt. Luckily it felt in control and around 6b and I was so relieved to reach the summit.

How much gear did you use and how did you clean it?
I’ve left the gear up there in case someone wishes to try the route! So I only cleaned the upper 45 meters of vertical climbing. To clean the route I will first lead it to the lip and then downclimb as I pick down the gear. And where it gets too hard then just jump down after taking a piece out

What is next?
This got me excited to start bouldering again and take a break from long routes, but I also had a look to both my sides in the roof and see more king lines to be explored. I will check them out, that is for sure and they might be even cooler!!

My goal is to develop new routes, and I don’t really have any specific route in mind other than maybe Move 9b/+, which is just so cool. It’s a route I really wish to climb one day. Right now I’m in Lofoten trying all sorts of boulders. Both established and untouched.