
1 February 2023
Lemento sit 8C by Jesรบs Muรฑoz Vaquero
Jesรบs Muรฑoz (Chuchi), who previously has done three 8C's, has sent Lemento sit (8C) in La Pedriza.
Can you give us the lowdown on Lemento?
The history of the "Lemento" boulder goes back some twenty years, when the brothers Israel and Abraham Olcina, pioneers of difficult bouldering in the central area of Spain, proposed one of the first 8A+/8B in La Pedriza. Subsequently, Carlos Ruano considered adding the sit-start, something that after much trying, he managed to make a reality in April 2019, thereby proposing the first 8C of the emblematic granite school. Three years passed until the first repetition arrived, in January 2022 by the Italian Lorenzo Puri.
I had already done the standing version (8B or 8A+) a long time ago, even before Carlos Ruano did the sit version. At that time the boulder was like that, we did not raise it in any other way. After they sat it down, I started to think about it, and I've been hitting it a bit, but I didn't really start trying it until last year, in the winter of 2022, when I came close to doing it. Then the heat set in, I went to Switzerland and I already left it until this season, when I resumed it more or less at the end of December or the beginning of January.
It is a boulder that requires a lot of skin, more than usual in La Pedriza, which is already an abrasive granite. Here the coincidence occurs that on two moves there are edges that cut the same finger. Last year I got a split, and as soon as I touched it again, it would open again in the same place. It's a bit frustrating because you can't hit it many times in a row, and that's also why I think the send has taken a longer time.
This year the game started again and yesterday the process came to an end. I am very glad that this was the case. Honestly, it hasn't been easy for me to enjoy it. Making my skin not destroyed in a few tries and finding good conditions has been, on many occasions, desperate. However, today the conditions and the company were perfect. Today everything fell into place and it was very easy to enjoy it.
Can you give us the lowdown on Lemento?
The history of the "Lemento" boulder goes back some twenty years, when the brothers Israel and Abraham Olcina, pioneers of difficult bouldering in the central area of Spain, proposed one of the first 8A+/8B in La Pedriza. Subsequently, Carlos Ruano considered adding the sit-start, something that after much trying, he managed to make a reality in April 2019, thereby proposing the first 8C of the emblematic granite school. Three years passed until the first repetition arrived, in January 2022 by the Italian Lorenzo Puri.
I had already done the standing version (8B or 8A+) a long time ago, even before Carlos Ruano did the sit version. At that time the boulder was like that, we did not raise it in any other way. After they sat it down, I started to think about it, and I've been hitting it a bit, but I didn't really start trying it until last year, in the winter of 2022, when I came close to doing it. Then the heat set in, I went to Switzerland and I already left it until this season, when I resumed it more or less at the end of December or the beginning of January.
It is a boulder that requires a lot of skin, more than usual in La Pedriza, which is already an abrasive granite. Here the coincidence occurs that on two moves there are edges that cut the same finger. Last year I got a split, and as soon as I touched it again, it would open again in the same place. It's a bit frustrating because you can't hit it many times in a row, and that's also why I think the send has taken a longer time.
This year the game started again and yesterday the process came to an end. I am very glad that this was the case. Honestly, it hasn't been easy for me to enjoy it. Making my skin not destroyed in a few tries and finding good conditions has been, on many occasions, desperate. However, today the conditions and the company were perfect. Today everything fell into place and it was very easy to enjoy it.
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