15 November 2011

Lead WC grades and gender

Evgeny Kryvosheytsev the only World Cup climber who has been on the podium in all disciplines including Ice Speed and Lead, is the chief route setter in Kranj the next weekend. He had the same job in Briancon and here is how he plans the grades. "IFSC does not give any recommendations for the grades but I plan for 8c and 8b+ in the final. The qualifications will be about 8b and 8a for the female and in the semi, 8b+ and 8b." Compared to five years, Evgeny think that the level has increased one grade. The style of the routes are quite different as the female mainly have to do endurance challenges on small crimpers meanwhile the males route are more explosive. Jakob Schubert, who won the first eight WC's in 2011 and who often train with the best female, the Austrian's: "If the male also competed on the female route, maybe two female still would make it to the finals but of course it depends on the style. On the male routes, the female would struggle hard doing dynamic and powerful moves.
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