15 November 2011

Lead WC grades and gender

Evgeny Kryvosheytsev the only World Cup climber who has been on the podium in all disciplines including Ice Speed and Lead, is the chief route setter in Kranj the next weekend. He had the same job in Briancon and here is how he plans the grades. "IFSC does not give any recommendations for the grades but I plan for 8c and 8b+ in the final. The qualifications will be about 8b and 8a for the female and in the semi, 8b+ and 8b." Compared to five years, Evgeny think that the level has increased one grade. The style of the routes are quite different as the female mainly have to do endurance challenges on small crimpers meanwhile the males route are more explosive. Jakob Schubert, who won the first eight WC's in 2011 and who often train with the best female, the Austrian's: "If the male also competed on the female route, maybe two female still would make it to the finals but of course it depends on the style. On the male routes, the female would struggle hard doing dynamic and powerful moves.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
EYC Annecy - 8a members dominate
Nicky de Leeuw gave us the winners: Juniors - Jakob Schubert & Christina Schmid Youth A - Jan hojer & Dinara Fahritdinova Youth B - Adam Ondra & Katโ€ฆ
Jakob Schubert who was #5 in the World Cup 2008, has onsighted Noa, 8b in Alquezar. "1st day climbing in Spain --> syked!" If just the weather will be OK, there will probably be a new world record of hard sends around Lleida, the center of Universe, as it seems all the top guys are celebrating Chโ€ฆ
Jakob Schubert is going from strength to strength. Yesterday, he finsihed 2008 by strongly by flashing Doble Lluna, 8b+, at Margalef. We're guessing his first 8c+ is just days away.