Lead comments and analysis


Tuesday, 3 August

The route setters were almost spot on creating an interesting route, although half had a tied score. From a spectator point of view, it was a bit sad that after a rather good start, the performance declined until the very end. The biggest surprise was that Adam Ondra was #4 but it looked more like a technical mistake rather than being pumped out, although he looked a bit tense. Youngsters, Colin Duffy (17) and Alberto Gines Lopez (18) made possibly their best Lead performance ever. Interesting is that Lopez has competed in almost double as many IFSC comps in 2021 compared to all other Olympians and he has actually been beaten by several in Euro Youth Cups earlier in 2021.

Jakob Schubert, the most experienced competition climber in the field, could, just like in the Bouldering event, handle the extreme pressure and win. It should be mentioned that Nathaniel Coleman also made his best Lead route ever, which took him to the Top-8 final.

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Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …