Le mur du son assis 8A+ flash by Charlotte Andre

Charlotte Andre, who was #14 in Chongqing in 2018, has flashed Le mur du son assis 8A+ in Fontainebleau, video. She was mainly a competition climber before the lockdown and had just bouldered few days in Font previously. Before she made the second ever 8A+ flash, after Ashima Shiraishi, she had just done a handful 8A's and now few days later she has done eleven. (c) Block’Out

"It was the first time I was in Font for ten full days and with a genuine drive to climb after being in lockdown for two months. The first days I discovered a new (for me ) but "classic" area: Le cuvier rempart with the first 8a of the forest and the "big five" famous and incredible boulders. Then, I realized that my fingers felt very strong. Manu (Cornu) told me that he tried the perfect boulder for me the previous week, a basic and short boulder, where "you are able to hold the crimps or not". I decided to try this problem but I was not thinking of flashing it. Once there Manu gave me all the betas. Just before trying, I was thinking to climb the stand 7C but he advised me to try directly the sit start... And well it worked!

I crushed the crimps one after the other. I was focused on my climbing and just thinking to go to the next hold. When I got the last jug, I started to realize I could do it and started to think and shake.... It was such a struggle in the easy mantle, haha."