Laura Rogora does Trofeo dell’Adriatico (9a+)

Laura Rogora has repeated Gabri Moroni’s Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. Over the past ten weeks, after securing double gold at the European Championship, the Italian climber has redpointed five routes graded 9a or harder and onsighted an 8c. In doing so, she is about to set a new standard for female climbers. (c) Giulio Diener

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I tried Trofeo dell’Adriatico for the first time two years ago. However, before the crux, there was a section with a very long move. At the time, I might have managed to do the single move, but it felt really tough, especially because it was part of a not-so-extreme section before the harder boulder problem. So, I never went back to it.

Last week, after climbing Bombardino the day before, I returned to Bus della stria and decided to try Trofeo again because it’s such a beautiful line, and I really wanted to climb it. I found a method for the long move that was still hard, but felt more doable. After that move, there was also a knee-bar rest that many climbers use, but I couldn’t reach it, so even resting there was a bit uncomfortable.

I wasn’t sure I’d be able to climb the route quickly, even though I managed to figure out the single moves. But I loved the line so much that I went quite often in the last week. Today, on my fifth day on the route, I managed to send it. Already on Sunday, even though I was a bit tired from climbing on Saturday, I had some good tries that made me realize it was possible. Today, I felt good, but on my first attempt, I made a mistake. On my second try of the day, however, I succeeded in completing the route.