14 October 2019
La Terza Eta 9a by Lorenzo Bogliacino
Lorenzo Bogliacino skips 8c+ and does his first 9a, La Terza Eta in Camaiore., after 12 days of projecting.
"I started climbing again in May after a five months break since I found a new job. Most of the summer I climbed in my home crag (Pian Bernardo) and started to feel in shape again. After quickly repeating some hard lines in a new crag bolted by Matteo Gambaro called CPR, I decided to try something harder to test myself. Surprisingly I did all the moves of la Terza Etร on my first day on it. Then I started a ten days siege that ended with me clipping the most dreamed chain of my life.
It is not the first time I stop climbing for 4/6 months but when I started again in may I was really motivated and climbed as much as I possibly could. I am working shifts so I am able to climb outdoor or train on the campus board also during the week. Even if it is a bit tiring I think it paid off! It requires some patience since often I am not able to climb with my friends during the weekend. My feeling was that the 8c I did a couple of months ago could deserve a + but not being sure I did not propose an upgrade... in any case, it was a good step towards my first 9a. Also, I think that the route suits my strengths very well. It is fingery and resistant and requires a good dose of fighting.
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