13 August 2022

La moustache qui fâche 9a+ by Yannis Gautier (19)

Yannis Gautier, who was #10 in an Euro Youth Cup in May, reports on Insta that he has done La moustache qui fâche (9a+) in Entraygues. It was put up by Enzo Oddo in 2011 and it has been repeated five times.
"I started trying this route two years ago but I was really far from the sending. It took me six sessions to pass the first crux, which is definitely not the hardest part of the route. Day after day it becomes more like a personal achievement to try hard on this route and I wanted to prove to myself I'm able to climb something hard. Working this route was so fun and I really liked the process because the effort is pretty short (12 hard moves) and fun to climb. It does not make you weaker to climb a lot on in. I also tried it with Nao Monchois this summer and it was very inspiring. The send try was really unexpected because I was not really strong I just had a great fight and it worked."

What is your next plan?
The next plan is to try several 9a's and principally to train a lot next year to increase my level. I will also do a lot of outdoor bouldering next year and I want to do maybe my first 8B+ or at least a lot of king lines in Switzerland and Fontainebleau.
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