31 October 2020
La flรปte en chantier 8c+ by Nolwen Berthier
Nolwen Berthier, a former competition climber, is having her best year ever and has done her second 8c+, La flรปte en chantier in the Ramirole cave in Verdon. (c) Theo Cartier
"This line catches your attention from the first glance, its diversity of movements is exceptionnal, its climbing is tricky and demanding. In short, the very pure Kinglineโฆ Clearly, itโs for this kind of routes that I get up in the morning, train, climb!
During the first few tries, the crux seemed easy to me, but there were still three movements that I wasnโt able to do. I was really not sure that it could work with my size. I had to reinvent the sections, to try out absurd or wacky methods, to finally find sequences that work. Make an insane drop knee while holding an intermediate hold? Dyno into a gaston flake? Getting quartered between two flat tufas? Challenge accepted! All the moves were done, itโs just a matter of timeโฆ and relentlessnessโฆ and successโฆ Okay, itโs still not a given, but it starts from there! The Summer passed, then the Fall came, bringing better conditions, but with a stressful timing: the rain and the resurgences were about to comeโฆ and the rumours of lockdownโฆ In short, I had a little pressure! In rock climbing, the theory of merit rarely works, itโs better to bet on the alignment of stars! Yesterday, all the parameters came together for a good run: shape, conditions, desire, lucidity, determination,โฆ Magic!" an hard and aesthetic 40 meters line in an overhanging prow with tufas, bolted by Antonin Rhodes. Itโs her second 8c+
"This line catches your attention from the first glance, its diversity of movements is exceptionnal, its climbing is tricky and demanding. In short, the very pure Kinglineโฆ Clearly, itโs for this kind of routes that I get up in the morning, train, climb!
During the first few tries, the crux seemed easy to me, but there were still three movements that I wasnโt able to do. I was really not sure that it could work with my size. I had to reinvent the sections, to try out absurd or wacky methods, to finally find sequences that work. Make an insane drop knee while holding an intermediate hold? Dyno into a gaston flake? Getting quartered between two flat tufas? Challenge accepted! All the moves were done, itโs just a matter of timeโฆ and relentlessnessโฆ and successโฆ Okay, itโs still not a given, but it starts from there! The Summer passed, then the Fall came, bringing better conditions, but with a stressful timing: the rain and the resurgences were about to comeโฆ and the rumours of lockdownโฆ In short, I had a little pressure! In rock climbing, the theory of merit rarely works, itโs better to bet on the alignment of stars! Yesterday, all the parameters came together for a good run: shape, conditions, desire, lucidity, determination,โฆ Magic!" an hard and aesthetic 40 meters line in an overhanging prow with tufas, bolted by Antonin Rhodes. Itโs her second 8c+
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