La Bavarese 8b+ MP by Alex Huber (53)

Alex Huber, one of the very best climbers during the '90s, has made the FA of La Bavarese V, 8a+, 8b+, 8b, 8b+, 7b+ at Punta Giraldili in Sardinia. The 53-year-old is known for his hard grades. In 1996 he made the FA of Open Air and the only repeat has been done by Adam Ondra who upgraded, meaning it became the first 9a+ in the world. Alex has also made several FA's on El Capitan as well as several speed records. At that time he also said the 9b FA by Fred Rouhling and the 9b+ FA by Bernabe Fernandez had exaggerated grades and caused the grade inflation. Time has shown he was right. (c) Riky Felderer

"The Ogliastra on the central east coast of Sardinia is a climbers paradise - you find amazing walls and striking spires and you could say that nothing compares to the Grutta Pintata, the giant roof on the South Face of Punta Giradili. Throughout all these years in the mountains, I haven't seen any other big overhang of similar dimensions. Meant to be climbed!

Right through the centre of this overhang leads the new route "La Bavarese" which I opened ground up one year ago. In October I came back with the intention to free climb its six pitches, but too much rain made a completely free ascent impossible - I had to come back and that´s exactly what I did! The first three pitches ( V / 8a+ / 8b+ ) of „La Bavarese“ follow the route "Niké" of Jan Kares - a line that still awaits a free ascent. The third pitch is the first crux - a short and bouldery pitch! With the fourth pitch, my creation "La Bavarese" leaves the route of Jan Kares and follows the line of least resistance. Another round of wildly overhanging roof climbing on three more pitches ( 8b / 8b+ / 7b+). The support of the local climbers was essential. Riky Felderer was only in charge to shoot these amazing pictures, but he was constantly supporting my efforts as well as he was my partner on the final redpoint ascent on the 5th of February."

What about training nowadays?
No more training as I never was really motivated to go to climbing gyms. But I climb regularly and do that whenever this is possible. Climbing itself is still effective training 😊