24 July 2022

Kwon Gaeun (8) sends Ixeia 8b+

Kwon Gaeun has set a new standard for youngsters by doing Ixeia (8b+) in Rodellar. Last week, she belayed her father, using an OHM, who also climbed it. In total the 134 cm tall South Korean climber needed eight sessions for the send which was done in 36 degree (celsius) weather .

It was my first time to come to Spain for a climbing trip with my dad and mom. I was so happy that I could make my project without difficulty on my first trip. The mountains and valleys of Rodellar are so beautiful that I was happy to have a good time every day. Especially, playing in the water every day and, I will miss the ice cream I bought when I walked back to the accommodation after climbing🥰🥰.

This spring she did her first 8b and her father commented. “She trains in my gym four days a week, about five hours a day. Three hours of endurance training (at her spray wall), one-hour bouldering and she does campus board training and cool-down stretching for an hour. She trains in the indoor gym like this on weekdays and goes rock climbing or on outdoor lead walls on weekend.”

How did you prepare for this trip and what is the next plan? We didn't prepare anything in particular. We trained in my gym as usual and have been climbing on the rocks in Korea. We will be onsight climbing for the remaining three days and plan to visit Sharma gym in Barcelona for two days before departure.
18 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Jakob Schubert's B.I.G. goes at 9c

Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that B.I.G. aka Project Big in Flatanger, goes at 9c. The Austrian made the FA, of the Adam Ondra bolted route, last week du…

Related
Kwon Gaeun, age 10, sets another new record with Southern Smoke (8c+)

Kwon Gaeun has set a new standard for youth once again by doing Southern Smoke (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). At age 10 years and three months, she becomes the …

La menina sixtina R2 8c+ (9a) by Daniel Fuertes (41)

Daniel Fuertes, who, two years ago, climbed Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b), has done La menina sixtina R2 8c+ (9a) in Rodellar. ”The first pitch is a…

P con fin mas Hulk extension 9a by Alex Ventajas

Alex Ventajas has been on a trip to Rodellar where he did four 8c’s and P con fin mas Hulk extension (9a) (c) Silvia Coppola ”Rodellar is one of my favorite …