30 March 2026
Kwon Gaeun, 12, does Puro Dreaming (8c+/9a)
Kwon Gaeun, who four months ago sent Era Vella (9a), has repeated Adam Ondraโs Puro Dreaming (8c+/9a) in Arco. Her father Younghye, who won an Ice World Cup two years ago, at age 51, comments.
โUp until now, Gaeun had mostly focused on challenging projects in the U.S. and Spain. However, seeking a fresh environment to take her climbing to the next level, we chose Arco, Italy, as our next destination for scouting and training. โArco is a place I know well; I used to stay here for training during the Ice Climbing World Cup season, traveling between Switzerland and France. Given its familiarity and the world-class sector, Massone, it was impossible not to have it on our list. โOur primary goal was the legendary line 'Pure Dreaming' (8c+/9a) in Massone. Surprisingly, Gaeun figured out all the moves within the first few days. However, two days of heavy rain caused water to seep through the cracks, leaving the holds damp and delaying her redpoint. She stayed patient, training at nearby local lead gyms while waiting for the right window. When the conditions finally cleared, she executed the route perfectly.โ
The 12-year-old comments. โ"I simply loved climbing on such magnificent rock under the warm Arco sun. Although I was a bit frustrated for a while because of the wet holds, I learned to stay patient and enjoy those moments as part of the journey. Traveling to a new place has been a wonderful experience. โAfter sending 'Pure Dreaming', I started working on 'Underground' for my next project. Being a shorter climber, some of the reaches felt long, but it was fun figuring out the beta and connecting the moves between the two routes. โWhile I was working on a specific sequence, Laura Rogora stopped by. I asked her if there was an alternative beta, and she was incredibly kind and helpful, which allowed me to solve the move easily. I want to say a huge thank you to her again! โNow, as soon as I return to Korea, the competition season begins. For the last few days of this trip, weโre heading to Innsbruck for some lead training. Iโm sure Iโll be back in Arco very soon!
โUp until now, Gaeun had mostly focused on challenging projects in the U.S. and Spain. However, seeking a fresh environment to take her climbing to the next level, we chose Arco, Italy, as our next destination for scouting and training. โArco is a place I know well; I used to stay here for training during the Ice Climbing World Cup season, traveling between Switzerland and France. Given its familiarity and the world-class sector, Massone, it was impossible not to have it on our list. โOur primary goal was the legendary line 'Pure Dreaming' (8c+/9a) in Massone. Surprisingly, Gaeun figured out all the moves within the first few days. However, two days of heavy rain caused water to seep through the cracks, leaving the holds damp and delaying her redpoint. She stayed patient, training at nearby local lead gyms while waiting for the right window. When the conditions finally cleared, she executed the route perfectly.โ
The 12-year-old comments. โ"I simply loved climbing on such magnificent rock under the warm Arco sun. Although I was a bit frustrated for a while because of the wet holds, I learned to stay patient and enjoy those moments as part of the journey. Traveling to a new place has been a wonderful experience. โAfter sending 'Pure Dreaming', I started working on 'Underground' for my next project. Being a shorter climber, some of the reaches felt long, but it was fun figuring out the beta and connecting the moves between the two routes. โWhile I was working on a specific sequence, Laura Rogora stopped by. I asked her if there was an alternative beta, and she was incredibly kind and helpful, which allowed me to solve the move easily. I want to say a huge thank you to her again! โNow, as soon as I return to Korea, the competition season begins. For the last few days of this trip, weโre heading to Innsbruck for some lead training. Iโm sure Iโll be back in Arco very soon!
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