King Capella 9b+ FA by Will Bosi with comments by Megos

Monday, 29 March

Will Bosi, who has been in Spain since December, has done the FA of King Capella 9b+ in Siurana, bolted by David Brasco. In total it took ten sessions. On this trip he also did the FA of La Furia de Jabali 9b (bolted by Beto Rocasolano) and Last Night 9a (bolted by Dani Andrada), in the same area.

King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella (9b, last March), whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella. “With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big all points off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma for a day, it was amazing!

After Moscow [European Championships and last Olympic qualification], the purpose of the training trip was to firstly reset after a long and tough Olympic campaign and secondly to put in a base level preparation for the upcoming IFSC World Cup lead season. Spain as the some of the highest concentration of hard sport climbing and I was also able to project first ascents in order to force myself to try unconventional beta to solve hard problems which is similar to what appears in World Cups.

Alex Megos comments"I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."

On top of Will’s first ascents, he amassed a staggering tick list with notable repeats including First Ley 9a+, Ley Indignata 9a and Estadio Critico 9a. Will kept his bouldering in check with establishing a new 8C boulder in Siurana (cleaned by Dave Graham) as well as repeating Bhai Bon 8B+, Bhai Po 8B+, Bhai Kakata 8B+/C and Bhai Ji 8B+.

Overall, only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, in the history of climbing have made such amazing comparable tick lists on a climbing trip. In Moscow, Bosi qualified to the final as #3 after having won in Bouldering and in the final he was #8.

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