10 June 2022
Jungle Boogie 9a+ by Nico Pelorson
Nico Pelorson, who did his first 9a+ this spring, reports on Insta that he has done Jungle Boogie (9a+) in Cรฉรผse. The French has previously done also nine 9a's but it is actually in bouldering where he is most impressive having done; Soudain seul (9A), No Kpote Only (9A) and Le pied ร coulisse (8C+). It should be mentioned that Nico's personal grade on them are; 8C+, 8C/+ and 8B+. (c) Sam Bie
How was the process taking it Jungle Boogie?
I tried it last year during the summer without succes. My endurance for doing these 30 super hard moves was definitely lacking... This year, I did more routes and less bouldering due to the fact I was living in Marseille.
What are your summer plans?
I need to work all this summer...๐so I will work and train in Fontainebleau all the summer.
So what are your autumn plans after that?
I hope I will finish La Dura Dura this winter but before a lot of hard projects in Fontainebleau for the autumn (: some really really hard stuff ๐ค. And keep trying "Le Bombรฉ Bleu" this winter (which is a 40 year old project in Buoux).
Have you done all moves?
Still not the first move. It is a jump from a one-finger pocket to a 2 finger pocket. Pretty sure it is not 9c. I think it could take only one week for someone strong like Megos or Ondra.
How was the process taking it Jungle Boogie?
I tried it last year during the summer without succes. My endurance for doing these 30 super hard moves was definitely lacking... This year, I did more routes and less bouldering due to the fact I was living in Marseille.
What are your summer plans?
I need to work all this summer...๐so I will work and train in Fontainebleau all the summer.
So what are your autumn plans after that?
I hope I will finish La Dura Dura this winter but before a lot of hard projects in Fontainebleau for the autumn (: some really really hard stuff ๐ค. And keep trying "Le Bombรฉ Bleu" this winter (which is a 40 year old project in Buoux).
Have you done all moves?
Still not the first move. It is a jump from a one-finger pocket to a 2 finger pocket. Pretty sure it is not 9c. I think it could take only one week for someone strong like Megos or Ondra.
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Nico Pelorson reports with Insta videos that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico and Squalo Bianco (8B+) in Valle Bavona.
Can you tell uโฆ
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done four 9a's but just one 8B+ before arriving to Fontainebleau, has done No Kpote Only 8C (+). It was put up by Charles Albert, barefoot, as a 9A. Later it has been repeated twice and 8C+/9A as well as 8C/+ have been suggested. "A great climb and a supeโฆ
Simon Lorenzi, who last year did the FA of Soudain seul (9A) after 26 sessions, reports on Insta that he linked Shawn Raboutou's Alpahane 9A in two parts after just five warm sessions. "The line and moves are amazing. ๐It's an incredible mix of strength, tension and technicity!
I've found the stylโฆ
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