Jun Shibanuma does Sleepwalker (8C+)

Jun Shibanuma, who last year did five 8C’s and a 9a, has completed Sleepwalker (8C+) in Red Rock (NV). Interestingly, the 34-year-old did not start climbing until he entered the University and until 2023 he had just done one 8C.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
It was a long-awaited dream line for me. At first impression, each move suited me well because I like physical moves like compression, underclings, and body swings. However, I was anxious about the crux move—slapping the sloper. My wingspan (168 cm) is shorter than average, even in Japan. Finally, I could tell it was possible when I checked the hold in Red Rocks, but it still felt really far for me.

I had three weeks to stay in Las Vegas, but I had to work a few days a week because I’m a remote office worker. I could try a total of eight days, but on some of them, I could only try in the morning.

During the first week of the tour, I had back pain and couldn’t do the crux moves. It was a bad start. But each move became more stable day by day. Even in the last week, it still felt far from an RP. Then, the moment came suddenly—just 30 minutes before leaving for the airport. For the first time from the start, I could hold the slot crimp. My body and fingers were giving out, and I was really about to fall until I stood up on the lip. I couldn’t understand what had happened. That was the best moment ever.

How can you best explain your great progress the last year?
It is really hard to explain because ascent of Sleepwalker is almost miracle. But I can say few things. So many climbers, friends, helped me a lot. I’m office worker but I the company allows me to work remotely and to adjust amount of work to challenge my dream. So many climbers cheered me a lot, and did fun session with me. Thanks to them, I can keep my motivation to push the limit. Add to that, I’m already 34 years old. Sometimes I felt being too old. But so many climbers, who are same generation with me , like Daniel woods, Melissa le neve, still keep on pushing their limits. They stimulated me a lot. So that I can never give up.