Jun Shibanuma does Amaterasu (8C) and two 8B+'

Jun Shibanuma has, in the same session, sent Amaterasu (8C), Phenomena (8B+) and Dakine (8B+) in Hinokage. Previously in 2024, Jun has done five 8C's and interestingly, the 34-year-old Japanese did not start climbing until he joined the University.

Can you tell us more about that amazing day?
AMATERASU is located in Mt.Hiei which is one of the most beautiful Boulder in Japan, maybe in the world, too. It has 14 move from start to the lip in my beta. The middle section is so crimpy and last section is powerful and technical with pinch and heel hook. Besides the rock is granite so crimp is so sharp. It’s really hard to link it, I fell many times at last crux.

The condition was perfect in the day (little bit cold). I warmed up a lot than usual. My body moved well and I could hold the last crux stably. But my finger grew numb with cold, I was about to fall to catch the lip. That was hard struggle.

Fortunately I sent it first go, so I decided to move other projects soon. I already solved sequence of “DAKINE” and “Phenomena “. DAKINE is also needed technically hook and physical strength, it was also hard for me. On the other hand, phenomena is my favorite style, the crux hold is a pinch. I had enough confidence to send it.

It was a amazing day, I had a lot of luck and my friends inspired me a lot.

How many sessions were needed for Amaterasu?
It took 3 years and I stopped to count sessions because sometimes I tried only 2-3hours before work or too bad conditions.

What are your winter plans?
Not decided yet 💦 Amaterasu was my goal of this winter. But there are a lot of good boulders around the Hiei and Hinokage. I will try them. And end of winter, I want to check Floatin (8C+).