23 March 2025

Jules Marchaland flashes Vecchio Leone (8B)

Jules Marchaland, with four 9a+โ€™ under his belt, has flashed Vecchio Leone (8B) in Brione. The Bernd Zangerl FA from 2004 is one of the highest ranked hard boulders in the VL database. It has 95 recorded ascents and scores 4.9 stars. In 2022, Aidan Roberts added an 8C+ sit start.

Last year, Jules competed in four Lead World Cups and his best result was being #14 in the Euro Championship. With a focus on routes he has previously just sent two 8B+โ€™

Can you tell us more about the trip and the flash?
It was just a short trip with by friends Simon Lorenzi and Diego Fourbet and we just tried super hard boulders for the future as we did not have a lot of time. My friends gave me good beta and it was super nice. This one is a mega classic and the rock is just too good here.

How was the winter and what are your 2025 plans?
I tried to focus only on plastic for comps but I completely missed the selections. I will change the plan and climb only on rock.

Are you still climbing with a hole in your shoe because of your old toe injury?
My foot is completely healed now. I climb when with new shoes without a hole now so that is good.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Vecchio Leone 8B flash by Killian Chabrier
Killian Chabrier has flashed Vecchio Leone in Brione. In 2021 he did his first three 8C's but this year he has previously been focused more on routes having donโ€ฆ
Three 8Bโ€™s and two 8Aโ€™s in a day for Janja
Janja Garnbret comments her one session ticklist in Brione on Instagram โ€Bad skin means playing on some easier classics.โ€ Vecchio Leone (8B), Amber (8B), Versaโ€ฆ
Alizee Dufraisse has done Versace (8B) in Brione. The Frenchwoman has been one of the best female climbers in the world since 2003 when she won the Youth World Championship and was Top-9 in both a boulder as well as in a Lead World Cup. She finished her competition career in 2016 and have since doneโ€ฆ