23 March 2025
Jules Marchaland flashes Vecchio Leone (8B)
Jules Marchaland, with four 9a+โ under his belt, has flashed Vecchio Leone (8B) in Brione. The Bernd Zangerl FA from 2004 is one of the highest ranked hard boulders in the VL database. It has 95 recorded ascents and scores 4.9 stars. In 2022, Aidan Roberts added an 8C+ sit start.
Last year, Jules competed in four Lead World Cups and his best result was being #14 in the Euro Championship. With a focus on routes he has previously just sent two 8B+โ
Can you tell us more about the trip and the flash?
It was just a short trip with by friends Simon Lorenzi and Diego Fourbet and we just tried super hard boulders for the future as we did not have a lot of time. My friends gave me good beta and it was super nice. This one is a mega classic and the rock is just too good here.
How was the winter and what are your 2025 plans?
I tried to focus only on plastic for comps but I completely missed the selections. I will change the plan and climb only on rock.
Are you still climbing with a hole in your shoe because of your old toe injury?
My foot is completely healed now. I climb when with new shoes without a hole now so that is good.
Last year, Jules competed in four Lead World Cups and his best result was being #14 in the Euro Championship. With a focus on routes he has previously just sent two 8B+โ
Can you tell us more about the trip and the flash?
It was just a short trip with by friends Simon Lorenzi and Diego Fourbet and we just tried super hard boulders for the future as we did not have a lot of time. My friends gave me good beta and it was super nice. This one is a mega classic and the rock is just too good here.
How was the winter and what are your 2025 plans?
I tried to focus only on plastic for comps but I completely missed the selections. I will change the plan and climb only on rock.
Are you still climbing with a hole in your shoe because of your old toe injury?
My foot is completely healed now. I climb when with new shoes without a hole now so that is good.
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