Jorge Diaz-Rullo puts his mega-project on hold and keeps the 8b+ onsights flowing

EDITORIAL

29 March 2023

Jorge Diaz Rullo has onsighted Rollito Sharma (8b+) in Santa Linya. The extension to this route is 8c and he fell on the last move. On Insta he reports that the 3rd season on his mega-project in Margalef, Cafe Colombia, which he has spent a total of 120 sessions, is over for now. The 23-year-old has previously done nine 9b's and one 9b+ and never spent more than 30 days on any given route. (c) Daniel Martinez

What's been your highpoint on your Cafe Colombia project? Any thoughts on the grade?
Well... I don't know about the grade 😅 My high point is in the last crux. After this crux, you have another 7C boulder problem but this boulder I know so well and maybe I will not fall. Until this last crux you climb the whole Cafe solo (9b) and some more hard moves. When you climb the part of 'Café solo' you have a very bad rest just for taking chalk and after that it is like 3 quickdraws around a long 8B boulder problem or a short 8c+ route.

Have you done any specific training?
I just train on the route, doing links or putting weight and some fingerboard. The rest is general training in order to get stronger but nothing specific.
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