Jon Cardwell FA’s Tu Me Manques (9a)

Jon Cardwell, who sent his first 9a almost twenty years ago, has done the first ascent of Tu Me Manques (9a) in Las Conchas. ”A very meaningful route to me. Dedicated to our dog, Peyton. A beautiful climb with intense and technical boulder problems throughout. Still unsure of the grade, maybe 9a/+, I need some help confirming some of the new routes!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
So yeah, this route is pretty special to me for a number of reasons. First of all, it’s actually an incredible line up a perfect tower feature. The wall itself about 40 meters tall (leaning tower in Las Conchas) is actually pretty significant for New Mexico climbing, hosting one of the first 5.13+/8b routes in the state (the later became harder due to holds breaking) and another 5.13/7c+ trad route.

People have looked that the line I bolted for many years but no one committed beyond that. This summer, my wife and I were climbing in the area and I went for a walk to look at the wall. Immediately I was inspired and had to get a closer look. Later that season I did a recon mission with some RB’s and was surprised that it was all there - of course with some small question marks but I figured I could sort it out. I bolted it, however during that process our 10 year old dog was diagnosed with an aggressive bone cancer. It was an incredibly difficult time facing end of life with her, making climbing emotionally challenging. She would come with us everywhere and the absence was really hard.

Eventually nature took its course and earlier this year I started trying the route again. After a handful of days I sorted my sequences and started making red point attempts. It didn’t take super long, about 6 or 7 days, but I think the route really suits my style (technical and bouldery power endurance). It also didn’t hurt that I did a ton of bouldering this winter up to 8B+ and working on some harder projects. I think that really helped my power and made things move faster.

Anyway, it came to a close after a huge fight on the crux, after that it’s not more than 8a so you can kind of relax and take it in. At the same time still need to stay focused. It’s a really cool balance. “Tu Me Manques” is a French term for I miss you, and it’s dedicated to Peyton.

Grades are always tricky and I’ve kind of been in my own little bubble down here searching out first ascents so my gauge may be a little off. However, most of my FA’s are still unrepeated! Probably due to a lot of them being in obscure places but I can’t wait to others to come and give their opinions.

I also thought about it a lot, you don’t see a ton of people in my generation bolting routes. Sure there definitely are some (adam, joe, Jonathan, Seb, etc) but most of the development we see is in bouldering, it makes me think that finding high end sport routes is actually pretty special and if we’re talking about 9b and above, incredibly rare. After all it’s been my goal since moving back to NM to bring 9a+ and beyond to my home state. It’s been a few years now and turns out it’s really hard to find those climbs! I thought this route might be it but I’m just not sure it breaks that barrier. However, I do have a couple more projects down south at another spot that I’m certain are much harder. Now that I’m done up here, my mission is simple.