3 October 2023

Jibรฉ Jourjon, 45, sends Pas tous ร  la fois (8c+)

Jean-Baptiste Jourjon, who made his first five headlines on 8a in 2001, by doing boulders up to 8B, has done Pas tous ร  la fois (8c) in Rocher de Beverau.

What is your recipe for peaking at age 45?
This summer, I tried to maintain my level of last spring when I did La Novena Puerta (8c+). It wasn't so much visible on the tick list because of warm conditions. At 45 I don't do things radically differently, I probably better listen to my body to distinguish the "good" tiredness of training from the "bad" one that leads to injury. It was already one of my strong points, but I think I'm also better at the mental game to give everything when no one would give me a chance and to continue trying despite ups and downs. When you pass the crux for the first time, it's easy to fall right after because everything looks different from the work go, but generally, I don't. It compensates for my relatively poor level at hangs or pull-ups.

What is next for you?
This weekend, I sent two 5-star lines around my home of Chambรฉry in old crags we recently refreshed with lots of crazy new stuff. I'm even more focused on climbing than before because if I want to send a 9a in my climbing- life, I should hurry up. Apart from the grail of the grade, I'm looking for a really major line to get motivated. I found it in Cรฉรผse, I bolted it 2 years ago, I called it "Gรฉnรฉrations futures", right now it's too hard for me. I know it's feasible and for sure in the 9th grade. Apparently, I could not convince the strong guys I met to go and try, too bad for them, maybe thanks to this [mention] some others will try.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Jean-Baptiste Jourjon, 44, sends La Novena Puerta (8c+) and onsights La Ruta del Sol (8b)
Jean-Baptiste Jourjon has done La Novena Puerta (8c+) in Santa Linya. The 44-year-old also onsighted his second 8b, La ruta del sol (8b) after having done his โ€ฆ
Direct Open Your Mind 9a (+) by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done La Novena Puerta (8c+) and in Santa Linya. "I started trying it after Seleccio Anal, it was a great style change after such a long aโ€ฆ
Iris Matamoros (43) keeps up his fine form
Iris Matamoros Quero has made the FA of Antifragil (8c+) in Mula, Murcia. The 43-year-old has climbed three out of his five 9aโ€™s in just the last 18 months. โ€Aโ€ฆ