
3 October 2023
Jibรฉ Jourjon, 45, sends Pas tous ร la fois (8c+)
Jean-Baptiste Jourjon, who made his first five headlines on 8a in 2001, by doing boulders up to 8B, has done Pas tous ร la fois (8c) in Rocher de Beverau.
What is your recipe for peaking at age 45?
This summer, I tried to maintain my level of last spring when I did La Novena Puerta (8c+). It wasn't so much visible on the tick list because of warm conditions. At 45 I don't do things radically differently, I probably better listen to my body to distinguish the "good" tiredness of training from the "bad" one that leads to injury. It was already one of my strong points, but I think I'm also better at the mental game to give everything when no one would give me a chance and to continue trying despite ups and downs. When you pass the crux for the first time, it's easy to fall right after because everything looks different from the work go, but generally, I don't. It compensates for my relatively poor level at hangs or pull-ups.
What is next for you?
This weekend, I sent two 5-star lines around my home of Chambรฉry in old crags we recently refreshed with lots of crazy new stuff. I'm even more focused on climbing than before because if I want to send a 9a in my climbing- life, I should hurry up. Apart from the grail of the grade, I'm looking for a really major line to get motivated. I found it in Cรฉรผse, I bolted it 2 years ago, I called it "Gรฉnรฉrations futures", right now it's too hard for me. I know it's feasible and for sure in the 9th grade. Apparently, I could not convince the strong guys I met to go and try, too bad for them, maybe thanks to this [mention] some others will try.
What is your recipe for peaking at age 45?
This summer, I tried to maintain my level of last spring when I did La Novena Puerta (8c+). It wasn't so much visible on the tick list because of warm conditions. At 45 I don't do things radically differently, I probably better listen to my body to distinguish the "good" tiredness of training from the "bad" one that leads to injury. It was already one of my strong points, but I think I'm also better at the mental game to give everything when no one would give me a chance and to continue trying despite ups and downs. When you pass the crux for the first time, it's easy to fall right after because everything looks different from the work go, but generally, I don't. It compensates for my relatively poor level at hangs or pull-ups.
What is next for you?
This weekend, I sent two 5-star lines around my home of Chambรฉry in old crags we recently refreshed with lots of crazy new stuff. I'm even more focused on climbing than before because if I want to send a 9a in my climbing- life, I should hurry up. Apart from the grail of the grade, I'm looking for a really major line to get motivated. I found it in Cรฉรผse, I bolted it 2 years ago, I called it "Gรฉnรฉrations futures", right now it's too hard for me. I know it's feasible and for sure in the 9th grade. Apparently, I could not convince the strong guys I met to go and try, too bad for them, maybe thanks to this [mention] some others will try.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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