Jessica Pilz makes quick work of Gambit (8c+)

Jessica Pilz, who sent an 8c+ in an hour this Monday, has done Gambit (8c+) Schleier Wasserfall, in just four tries. ”One of the best routes I’ve climbed so far. 3rd go today (4th in total). thx Misha [Piccolruaz] for the patience and belay :)” The picture is from 2021 on Jessy's first attempt of Wagnis Orange (8c). (c) Paul Lewandovski

How many days have you been climbing outdoors since the picture was taken?
Monday this week was my first day outside in 2023. Since the picture was taken less than 5 days, I think...

Can you tell us more about the Gambit?
I checked out the route on Tuesday, but it was too sunny for the upper part, so I couldn’t do all the moves. Yesterday it was cloudy and much better conditions, I worked the moves one more time and then I did my first attempt from the ground. Surprisingly I made it through the roof and fell on the last hard move. On my next try, the moves felt already so much easier and I came to the crux a bit fresher. I got a bit nervous on the runout, which is not hard but you skip a clip and the footholds are not the best, but it all worked out :)

Any thought of starting projecting a 9a?
No plans for future projects yet, because I will have a week of rest now and then I will see if I am still in shape 😅.


Michael Piccolruaz comments the impressive send. ”Jessy is definitely in great shape. It's great to see that she manages to translate her comp fitness also to the rocks. I got to belay her on Gambit, a route I had previously climbed myself, and it was super impressive to see how easily she climbed through the hardest moves, seemingly not getting pumped at all. She has now done 2 classic 8c+, both solid for the grade, in just a couple tries each. Clearly she can climb a lot harder and I'm excited to see what's possible in the next months.”