13 December 2023

Jesse Grupper ticks Full Metal Brisket (9a+)

Jesse Grupper reports on Instagram that he has repeated Jonathan Siegrist's Full Metal Brisket (9a+) in New River Gorge (WV). The redpoint took five sessions and after day four Grupper felt he needed to take a step back, so he took a quick trip to Red River Gorge where he flashed Pure Imagination (8c+) and onsighted Thanatopsis 8b+ (c).

"That night I felt frustrated. I felt the weight of months of high performance comp climbing weighing on me. I had convinced myself that I was here to perform and send. I was honestly a bit over it. I was supposed to be outdoors doing the thing I loved, but that love felt fake. I wanted to leave. That night I decided to do just that." (c) Karen Lane

What do you do for mental training and can you elaborate a bit on that feeling of โ€fake loveโ€ that you mentioned?
I do yoga, and meditate when I have the time. Rock climbings been my bread and butter in the sport, but taking a pause from it for the comp scene left me feeling a little lost in it, and coming back to it it was hard to find that same enjoyment that I knew I had towards it, that wasn't overly influenced by my feelings from the comp season.

What are your winter plans?
I'm planning on focusing on building a base for the upcoming WC season/Olympics.
5 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Full Metal Brisket 9a+ by Tyler Thompson
Tyler Thompson has skipped 9a and gone straight to 9a+ by climbing Full Metal Brisket (9a+) in the New River Gorge (WV). The line was bolted by Lee Robinson andโ€ฆ
Pure Imagination 8c+ by Solveig Korherr
Solveig Korherr, who did her first 9a this summer, has done Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "A dream line in of the best the climbing spots! Theโ€ฆ
Babsi Zangerl ticks Pure Imagination (8c+)
Barbara Zangerl, who previously has done four routes 8c+/9a and harder, has sent Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge, after projecting it for seven days. โ€ฆ