21 August 2019

Japan and Slovenia (Janja) extreme domination

The extreme domination of Japan getting seven out of the nine medals, excluding Speed, and having 50 % of the Combined finalists make you think how it would look like if they would have been allowed to participate with ten athletes like in the male Boulder WC? Japan male is on the way to dominate the sport like how the whole continent of Africa is dominating middle distance running. If this trend continue, IFSC and the whole competition scene is a big risk actually. "Luckily" there is a max national team quota of two in the Olympics 2020. Without any quota, also in the World Cup, possibly 50 % of all participants would have been from Japan. On the other hand, Janja Garnbret getting three golds in Hachioji, is as superior as ever also when it comes to crown the best female competition climber ever. As a team, Slovenia was, beside Japan, superior with four Top-17 in the Combined. From one perspective, their results is actually more impressive as they have just 2 millions inhabitants compared to Japan with 128 millions. Remember that Slovenia beside the Lead silver by Mia Krampl had another four Top-12. In Bouldering they had four Top-21. The country with possibly the worst, relatively speaking, poor result was France. Their best result in the four Lead and Boulder categories were; 25 - 8 - 16 - 9 and it continues in the Combination; 7 - 12. In other words, measuring only these comps by the World Cup points standard, France result was a total fiasco considering they sent of of the largest teams. It should also be mentioned that also Italy and Spain got a very poor result. The epicentrum of competition climbing is moving towards Asia.
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