
28 July 2023
Janja Garnbret shares her thoughts on RED-S
Janja Garnbret has, one week before the World Championship starts in Bern, made a strong statement on her Instagram in regards to eating disorders and RED-S.
Here is part of what she says. "I encourage coaches to hire dietitians or other professionals to speak about nutrition to their athletes and train coaches on eating disorders in sport. RED-S screenings should be mandatory for all World Cup and Continental Cup participants. And yes, I believe that sanctions from competitions are needed if thresholds set by experts are not met. This being said, Iโm skeptical towards putting national federations in charge of this as for understandable reasons there can be too much personal closeness to see the truth or dependency on an athleteโs success to actually make the necessary calls.
I said it before and I'll say it again. Malnutrition and RED-S in climbing needs to be tackled asap. Preventing athletes and our sport in general from further damage should be in all of our interest and on top of the @ifsclimbing agenda."
One month ago, IFSC Medical Commission Doctors Volker Schรถffl and Eugen Burtscher resigned in protest as a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of the athletes.
Here is part of what she says. "I encourage coaches to hire dietitians or other professionals to speak about nutrition to their athletes and train coaches on eating disorders in sport. RED-S screenings should be mandatory for all World Cup and Continental Cup participants. And yes, I believe that sanctions from competitions are needed if thresholds set by experts are not met. This being said, Iโm skeptical towards putting national federations in charge of this as for understandable reasons there can be too much personal closeness to see the truth or dependency on an athleteโs success to actually make the necessary calls.
I said it before and I'll say it again. Malnutrition and RED-S in climbing needs to be tackled asap. Preventing athletes and our sport in general from further damage should be in all of our interest and on top of the @ifsclimbing agenda."
One month ago, IFSC Medical Commission Doctors Volker Schรถffl and Eugen Burtscher resigned in protest as a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of the athletes.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


