Vertical-Life
Jana Švecová sends Svini Mor (8B)
"Roughly a month ago, I went to Terranova to try a few moves, but unfortunately, it was wet, so we headed to Staré Skály instead, which is another area in Moravian Karst roughly 5’of drive from Holštejn. Luckily, the conditions there were acceptable, but most of the boulders were wet anyway, except for Sviní Mor (8B). So, Martin and I decided to give it a go. I thought of approaching it as more of a training session since it is not my style at all. It was actually great, to climb the same boulder together again, because we encouraged each other and competed in who can do the moves faster.
On the very first day, I managed to do all the moves except the first one, which required quite a big reach. The next day, I focused on that particular move and succeeded, thanks to using a new starting foothold. I even climbed the entire boulder that same day, skipping only the reachy first move. At that moment, I thought that maybe, with a good rest, I could climb it next time. But putting it all together, turned out to be more challenging. Even with a different foothold, the first move was still on my limit that I can reach, and it took me seven climbing days to finally top the boulder. Certainly, both the mental aspect and the conditions played a role.
In the end, I felt immense joy from completing the boulder because I never thought I would climb such a boulder problem, especially considering that crux holds are slopers. And on top of that, there's a crux where you have to use heel hook that gives me the most trouble because I’m terrible at heel hooking."
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi
William Bosi has flashed his third 8B, Sviní Mor in Moravský kras which was put up by Adam Ondra in 2013. In the video, Will actually seems to cruise it. "Defin…
Grotta Azzurra and Špekmen 8A+ by Jana Svecová (Vincourková)
Jana Svecová (Vincourková) has done Grotta Azzurra (8A+) in Moravský kras and Špekmen (8A+) in Petrohrad. The latter she thought was a soft 8A. The 25-year-old …
Cup of Immortality extension 8C (+) by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has had a great day in Moravský kras where he first flashed Vnitřní Svět Vítězů (8B), giving it a personal 8A+ grade. Later he did the FA of Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (prodloužení) 8C (+) (Cup of Immortality extension). "8C/8C+, maybe 8C+, last moves are very specific and hard to grade." The ex…
Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi
William Bosi has flashed his third 8B, Sviní Mor in Moravský kras which was put up by Adam Ondra in 2013. In the video, Will actually seems to cruise it. "Defin…
Grotta Azzurra and Špekmen 8A+ by Jana Svecová (Vincourková)
Jana Svecová (Vincourková) has done Grotta Azzurra (8A+) in Moravský kras and Špekmen (8A+) in Petrohrad. The latter she thought was a soft 8A. The 25-year-old …
Cup of Immortality extension 8C (+) by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has had a great day in Moravský kras where he first flashed Vnitřní Svět Vítězů (8B), giving it a personal 8A+ grade. Later he did the FA of Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (prodloužení) 8C (+) (Cup of Immortality extension). "8C/8C+, maybe 8C+, last moves are very specific and hard to grade." The ex…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…