7 August 2023
Jana ล vecovรก sends Svini Mor (8B)
Jana Svecova has done Svinรญ Mor (8B) in Moravskรฝ kras and two 8A+. In the 8a ranking game, the 26-year-old is #2.
"Roughly a month ago, I went to Terranova to try a few moves, but unfortunately, it was wet, so we headed to Starรฉ Skรกly instead, which is another area in Moravian Karst roughly 5โof drive from Holลกtejn. Luckily, the conditions there were acceptable, but most of the boulders were wet anyway, except for Svinรญ Mor (8B). So, Martin and I decided to give it a go. I thought of approaching it as more of a training session since it is not my style at all. It was actually great, to climb the same boulder together again, because we encouraged each other and competed in who can do the moves faster.
On the very first day, I managed to do all the moves except the first one, which required quite a big reach. The next day, I focused on that particular move and succeeded, thanks to using a new starting foothold. I even climbed the entire boulder that same day, skipping only the reachy first move. At that moment, I thought that maybe, with a good rest, I could climb it next time. But putting it all together, turned out to be more challenging. Even with a different foothold, the first move was still on my limit that I can reach, and it took me seven climbing days to finally top the boulder. Certainly, both the mental aspect and the conditions played a role.
In the end, I felt immense joy from completing the boulder because I never thought I would climb such a boulder problem, especially considering that crux holds are slopers. And on top of that, there's a crux where you have to use heel hook that gives me the most trouble because Iโm terrible at heel hooking."
"Roughly a month ago, I went to Terranova to try a few moves, but unfortunately, it was wet, so we headed to Starรฉ Skรกly instead, which is another area in Moravian Karst roughly 5โof drive from Holลกtejn. Luckily, the conditions there were acceptable, but most of the boulders were wet anyway, except for Svinรญ Mor (8B). So, Martin and I decided to give it a go. I thought of approaching it as more of a training session since it is not my style at all. It was actually great, to climb the same boulder together again, because we encouraged each other and competed in who can do the moves faster.
On the very first day, I managed to do all the moves except the first one, which required quite a big reach. The next day, I focused on that particular move and succeeded, thanks to using a new starting foothold. I even climbed the entire boulder that same day, skipping only the reachy first move. At that moment, I thought that maybe, with a good rest, I could climb it next time. But putting it all together, turned out to be more challenging. Even with a different foothold, the first move was still on my limit that I can reach, and it took me seven climbing days to finally top the boulder. Certainly, both the mental aspect and the conditions played a role.
In the end, I felt immense joy from completing the boulder because I never thought I would climb such a boulder problem, especially considering that crux holds are slopers. And on top of that, there's a crux where you have to use heel hook that gives me the most trouble because Iโm terrible at heel hooking."
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