James Mchaffie 43, does Yma O Hyd (8c+) trad

James Mchaffie, with two 9a’s, done 13 years ago, has sent Yma O Hyd in Gnyweed. The 43-year-old is one of the most accomplished trad climbers in the UK with 15 routes E9 and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The climb is a direct on an E9 called Mission impossible (8b). It follows a thin crack via some great moves to join mission impossible at all its cruxes. It took me 3 months to get into shape to climb it, partly because the summer was very wet and I needed to gain form. I did Mission impossible in 2009 and that didn't take long, 2 sessions I think. This hard one took many sessions over 3 months.

I'm generally into onsighting rather than projecting but the climbing and rock was so good on this project I really wanted to give it my best shot at climbing it.

How is the protection?
Protection is good but start is committing. Need to place gear carefully, jump down on rucksack to then test them before climbing. I placed all gear on lead.