Jacopo Larcher repeats Magic Line (8c+) trad

Jacopo Larcher, one of the world’s leading multi-discipline climbers, has achieved the sixth ascent of Magic Line in Yosemite. The 35-year-old Italian climber has previously completed over a dozen traditional routes graded 8b+ or harder, establishing himself as one of the most accomplished trad climbers globally. (c) Barbara Zangerl

”Besides the famous photograph of Ron Kauk’s FA back in the day, I first got a glimpse of it when Hazel Findlay climbed it and I took some photos of her. I was amazed and intimidated at the same time by the line, but unfortunately over the years I never took the chance or the time to go and try it myself. The opportunity eventually arrived, when last year Babsi came back home very enthusiastic after having tried it and was motivated for closing the circle this year. It wasn’t difficult to talk me into joining! I must admit, that at first I underestimated the complexity of the route and during my first days trying it, I felt completely lost. It’s not the kind of the route that you can just power through if you’re strong enough. Everyone has to find his or her own beta to solve the intricate sequences and climb flawlessly in order to stay on those almost non-existent footholds.

It seems like everyone climbs the crux differently. You need to find the perfect balance between pushing, pulling, being confident enough, but not too much. You can feel great on it and fall at any moment, and the other way around. It’s definitely a hard one for the mind. You really have to focus only on the moment, without overthinking. When I finally figured out the crux and began to feel better on it, I naively thought I would stand a high chance of climbing the route,if I were to get through the crux on lead. I quickly realized I was wrong.

Placing the tiny gear definitely adds some extra complexity and, even when I started to pass the crux on almost every lead try, I kept on falling off somewhere else, twice from the very last move. The last days have been a rollercoaster. I have to admit that I felt unfounded pressure, both from my self and the outside, and I coped badly with it, not being my best self. It took some effort to shake off this pressure, but once more, the key to success was to simply enjoying the process and feeling lucky to share it with good people and be able to climb on such a gem!

Now, I’m almost sad that it’s over. This line and the process to climb it have taught me a lot and it means a lot to me. Big thanks to Babsi, Brent, Connor and Matthias for the good time and the support!… and thanks to Magic Line for the (life) experience.”