Jack's broken heart 8A+ by Stasa Gejo

Wednesday, 22 July

Stasa Gejo has done her first 8A+, Jack's broken heart in Magic Wood. The Serbian did her first 8b route at age 12 and later she was one of the best Lead youth competitors. Competing with the seniors, she switched more into bouldering and in 2017, being 17-years-old, she won both the European Championship as well as The world Games and in 2018, she was #3 in the World Championship. 2019 started with her falling from the top in Studio Bloc Master getting a knee a bad injury.

"I rarely boulder outdoors in general and I especially avoided it after the knee surgery. But this month I felt strong for trying something hard. Also, the knee felt pretty solid for more agressive heelhooks and falls. It has been more than a year since, it was a very tough recovery path and I will still follow the leg training routine in the future. Now I am back in Munich, where I currently live, continuing the trainings and the preparations for the few competitions that will take place this summer and autumn. The ultimate goal is the European Championship in Moscow in November. And some outdoor lead projects in Frankenjura."

She is a udying M.Sc. in Power Engineering at TUM and apart from that training like 20 hours a week but no specific training partner or coach. She trains 3x a week fitness and 4-5 times climbing training. Since the Covid19 there is also rock climbing almost every week.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …