Innsbruck Highs and Lows

Innsbruck has been the epicentre for competition climbing for many years, and the shows are always well-organized. Here are some reflections from the last World Cups, besides calling Simon Lorenzi's 13-second send on his tenth attempt the most epic moment.


1. The Lead route setting was in general good but possibly too technical as most athletes actually fell due to technical mistakes instead of giving a good fight.
2. During the Boulder finals, it was too hard to get to the zone but once there, too easy to get to the top. In most cases, as soon as you got the zone, you also made it to the top. Everyone who topped did so directly after they made it to the zone.
3. Great digital result presentation in the Lead finals, but otherwise poor, making the commentators' job difficult.
4. Good job by the commentators creating a friendly and positive feeling including quick interviews.
5. The commentators misguide the viewers as they cannot analyse the result in bouldering.
6. Semis are about qualifying to the final but this is of very low interest to the commentators who focus on the show.
7. Too many competitors - max 2 per country if not having ranking points will make conditions fairer.
8. Brooke Raboutou is the new contender for a medal in Tokyo. In 2019, her best results were #15 in Lead and #21 in Boulder, out of eight events.

9. In the IFSC channel, it was announced that Laura Rogora won the semi in Lead, but later it was said she was timed out.
10. Japanese males continue their total domination in Boulder, and in Lead they had four Top-11.
11. While no male qualified for both the Lead and Boulder finals, Janja Garnbret won both quite superior.
12. The Olympic favourites strengthened their positions but most others struggle.
13. Outrageous camera work of Johanna Förber
14. Bolt covers so nobody will be disqualified stepping on the bolts.